· 7 min read

Autumn Planting of Trees and Shrubs: Why It Beats Spring

Most autumn gardening is tidying up. Planting trees and shrubs is the exception — here autumn isn't second best to spring, it's the better of the two.

The reason is simple. In autumn the soil is still warm from summer while the air has cooled — so the plant doesn't have to support leaves and puts all its energy into roots. By spring it has built a root system, and in May, when the first dry spell comes, it has something to draw on. Spring planting doesn't get that advantage: the plant breaks into growth immediately and has to root and grow at the same time.

Exactly when to plant

The ideal window runs from mid-October to the end of November — after leaf fall and before the ground freezes. A simple rule serves well: as long as you can dig the soil, you can plant.

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What to plant in autumn and what not to

GroupAutumn plantingNote
Deciduous trees and shrubsidealapples, pears, plums, currants, gooseberries
Rosesidealearth up over the union after planting
Deciduous hedgingidealhornbeam, privet, dogwood
Conifers and evergreensSeptember ratherthey need to root early, they transpire all winter
Peaches, apricotsspring is saferyoung trees are prone to winter dieback
Bay, fig, citrusnofrost-tender, plant in spring

Bare-root stock — the autumn speciality

Autumn is when bare-root plants are sold — no pot, roots exposed. They're markedly cheaper than containerised stock and establish just as well, but with one condition: the roots must never dry out. Between buying and planting, keep them wrapped in damp sacking or heeled into soil. An hour in the sun on a barrow can kill a plant.

How to plant, step by step

  1. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. Trees planted too deep struggle and often die years later.
  2. Break up the sides of the hole — in heavy soil, smooth walls behave like a plant pot and roots can't get out through them.
  3. Spread the roots out — evenly outwards for bare-root stock; on containerised plants, tease out or cut through any roots circling the edge of the ball.
  4. Keep the root collar at ground level — on grafted plants the graft union must stay above the soil.
  5. Backfill with the original soil, not pure compost — an over-rich hole discourages roots from venturing into the surrounding ground.
  6. Make a watering basin and soak it thoroughly — 20–30 litres per tree, even if it's raining. The water settles the soil around the roots.
  7. Stake it — essential for anything over 1.5 m. Drive the stake in before planting, not after, so you don't spear the roots.
  8. Mulch — 5–7 cm of bark or leaves, but leave a clear ring around the stem.
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What not to forget after planting

  • Water in autumn too — if a dry spell follows planting, keep watering until the ground freezes. Drought, not frost, is the commonest killer of newly planted woody plants.
  • Guard the stem against gnawing — a spiral guard or wire mesh. Rabbits, hares and voles treat young bark as a first-choice winter food.
  • White paint or a reed mat on the south side of the trunk against frost cracks — these open on sunny winter days, when bark warms up by day and freezes hard at night.
  • Prune in spring, not now — don't cut back after autumn planting; wait until late winter.

Frequently asked questions

Is autumn really better than spring for planting trees?

For deciduous woody plants, yes. The soil is warm in autumn, rainfall reliable, and a leafless plant puts all its energy into roots — by spring it's a whole season ahead. For conifers, evergreens and frost-tender species (peach, apricot) spring is the safer choice.

How late in autumn can you plant woody plants?

As long as the ground can be dug and isn't frozen — in normal conditions roughly to the end of November, and in mild winters into December. What matters is having a few frost-free weeks after planting for the plant to make contact with the surrounding soil.

Do I have to water a newly planted tree in autumn if it's raining?

Yes, straight after planting without question. Watering isn't only about supplying moisture but mainly about settling soil around the roots — it fills the air pockets in which roots would dry out. Repeat the 20–30 litres whenever a longer dry spell sets in, right up to the freeze.

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