Tomatoes are among the most popular crops for Central European gardeners. Almost everyone with even a small garden or a sunny balcony grows them. Yet many growers make mistakes that lead to lower yields or disease problems. In this guide we'll walk through the whole process from variety selection to harvest.
Choosing a variety
There are dozens of tomato varieties on the market. For beginners we recommend indeterminate (cordon) varieties, which grow and crop continuously throughout the season. Reliable varieties include 'Stupické polní rané', 'Tornado F1' and 'Saint Pierre'. For balcony growing, choose compact bush varieties such as 'Balcony Wonder' or 'Tumbling Tom'.
When choosing, also consider resistance to blight (Phytophthora infestans), which is the most common problem in Central European conditions. F1 hybrid varieties tend to be more resistant, but their seeds cannot be saved and replanted.
Starting from seed
Begin sowing seeds indoors in the first half of March. Sow the seeds into seed trays filled with good-quality seed compost, to a depth of about 0.5 cm. Keep the compost evenly moist but never waterlogged.
The optimal temperature for germination is 22–25°C. Seeds usually germinate within 5–10 days. Once they have sprouted, lower the temperature to 18–20°C and ensure plenty of light — ideally 12–14 hours a day. If you don't have a sufficiently bright windowsill, consider supplementary LED lighting.
Once the seedlings have produced their first true pair of leaves (not the seed leaves), prick them out into individual pots 8–10 cm in diameter. When pricking out, plant the seedling deeper than it was sitting before, right up to the seed leaves — roots will form on the buried portion of stem, making the plant stronger.
Hardening off and planting out
Two weeks before your planned planting date, begin hardening off the seedlings. Initially, expose them to outdoor conditions for 2–3 hours a day, gradually increasing the time. Protect them from direct midday sun and strong winds.
Plant out after the Ice Saints — no earlier than 15 May — when there is no longer any risk of ground frost. Choose a sunny, sheltered position. Optimal spacing is 50 cm between plants and 60 cm between rows.
Before planting, prepare holes and add a handful of compost and a tablespoon of bone meal to each one. Plant seedlings deeper than they were growing in their pots — if the stem is long, you can lay it diagonally in a trench and cover with soil. Roots will form along the buried stem.
Care during the season
Tomatoes need regular watering at the roots, never on the leaves. Water in the morning if possible, so that any moisture on the leaves has time to evaporate during the day. Water daily in hot weather, every other day when it is cooler. Irregular watering causes fruit to crack.
Mulching is crucial for tomatoes. A 5–10 cm layer of straw, grass clippings or compost around the plants prevents the soil drying out, suppresses weeds and stops soil particles splashing onto the lower leaves (the main route of blight infection).
Staking and side-shooting
Cordon tomatoes need support. Use canes 150–180 cm tall, or strings hanging from an overhead structure. Tie plants in progressively with soft string, using a figure-of-eight tie looped around both stem and cane.
Remove side shoots (the shoots that grow in the angle between the main stem and a leaf) regularly while they are still small. Keep only the main stem and, optionally, one strong side shoot below the first flower truss for a two-stem system. Unpinched side shoots draw energy away from the fruit and reduce airflow.
Feeding
After planting, leave plants 2–3 weeks to establish roots. Then start feeding every 10–14 days. In the early growth phase use a fertiliser with higher nitrogen content. Once the fruits have set, switch to a high-potassium fertiliser, which promotes ripening and improves flavour.
Diseases and protection
Blight (Phytophthora infestans) is the most serious fungal disease of tomatoes in Central Europe. It shows as brown patches on leaves and fruit, especially in wet and cool weather. Apply a preventive copper-based spray from June every 10–14 days. Ensure adequate spacing and airflow around plants.
Blossom end rot (a dark, sunken patch at the bottom of the fruit) is not a disease but a physiological disorder caused by calcium deficiency. The cause is usually irregular watering. The solution is even, consistent moisture — and liming the soil if necessary.
Harvest and storage
Harvest tomatoes when fully ripe — they should be deep in colour and give slightly when gently pressed. Fruit ripened on the plant has the best flavour. In September, when the first frosts threaten, harvest any remaining green tomatoes — they will ripen indoors at room temperature. Speed up ripening by placing a ripe apple nearby, which releases ethylene gas.
Well-grown tomatoes will reward a patient gardener with a rich harvest of flavourful fruit that nothing from a shop can match. The key is consistency in care and preventive disease management.